A Kenya Safari with Nikki: Amboseli, Maasai Mara, Laikipia & Diani Beach

Arriving into Nairobi can feel overwhelming, but with the right setup it’s surprisingly smooth. You’re met off the plane, fast-tracked through immigration, and within about 40 minutes you’re in Karen – a leafy neighbourhood where people ride their horses to coffee shops (yes, really!). It’s not what you expect, but I loved that.

We stayed at Hemingways, which is exactly what you want after a long flight. Quiet, spacious and calm. It has that romantic “golden age of safari” feel, with expansive gardens, monkeys in the trees and constant birdsong. It’s the kind of place where you can sit outside and properly reset before safari begins.

If you want something light to do, the Giraffe Centre is nearby – it’s quite commercial, but actually a nice introduction, especially for families. Otherwise, Langata Links is a great stop for locally made crafts and gifts. The key here is not to overdo it. Just arrive, decompress, and get ready for what’s coming next.

This is something clients sometimes don’t always realise but it makes a huge difference to the experience. In private conservancies, like where Angama Amboseli is located, you can drive off-road, there are limits on how many vehicles can be at a sighting, and everything feels more flexible and intimate.

When you enter the national park, it’s noticeably busier. You might find several vehicles gathered around one sighting. It’s still exciting, but the contrast makes you appreciate the privacy of the conservancy even more.

Both have their place, but starting in a conservancy is a much softer, more immersive introduction to safari.

Flying into the Maasai Mara is something else entirely. Angama Mara sits on a cliff overlooking the Mara Triangle, and has one of the most spectacular views I’ve ever seen. Nothing prepares you for walking out onto that terrace and seeing the entire Mara laid out below you. It’s phenomenal, and there’s nowhere else quite like it.

Angama does a brilliant job of keeping things moving. You’re never static or in one place for too long. Lunch in one setting, sundowners somewhere else, dinner in a completely different location. There’s always a sense of anticipation.

We visited the “Out of Africa” hill, where they recreate the famous picnic scene, set up exactly where Meryl Streep filmed. It’s actually really enjoyable and slightly tongue-in-cheek, and I can see why guests love it.

Game drives here are very exclusive and the wildlife is incredible. Right away we came across lions mating, not an everyday sight, and we also saw cheetahs out on the plains, which is always special as they’re a little rarer. Because the grass was long during the rainy season, you had to look a bit harder, but that actually made it more engaging.

The guiding at safari lodges such as Angama is what really elevates it. You can be looking out and see absolutely nothing, just grass and trees, and then the guides will suddenly spot something miles away with the naked eye. It’s incredible. They get excited about everything, and through that, you do too. Even birds become fascinating – the colours, the behaviour, the calls – everything becomes part of this immersive experience. 

For those wanting something different, Angama Safari Camp offers a more rustic overnight experience. Zippered tents, bucket showers, but with hot water and a really cosy feel. It’s a proper “in the bush” experience and a great contrast to the main lodge.

There are also lovely personal touches back at camp. Three Maasai women sit creating beadwork, and you can have pieces made – I had a bracelet with my husband and children’s initials, while someone else had their jacket customised with Kenyan fabric. It’s beautifully done and feels meaningful.

One evening, we gathered in a clearing where chairs were set out facing the plains. You hear the Maasai before you see them, then they come through, chanting and moving across the space. They tell stories, explain their traditions, and invite guests to take part. If someone is celebrating something, they’ll do a blessing and offer a small gift. It felt incredibly warm and genuine.

From the Mara, we flew north to Laikipia, and this is where the experience shifts again.

Segera is one of those truly special properties – no photos can do it justice.

It sits within a vast private conservancy, and there are no other vehicles. It’s just you, the landscape, and the wildlife. The conservation work here, particularly around rhino, is extraordinary, and you really feel that purpose when you’re there. Everyone is so proud of what they’ve accomplished in quite a short period of time - bringing rhinos back to the area and watching them really thrive.

Game drives are incredibly intimate. At one point we were following lions through the grass just metres away, with no one else around.

I fondly remember sitting by my villa at Segera, looking out from the plunge pool and seeing a family of giraffe in the distance. It was one of those moments you’ve seen so many times in photos, and then suddenly it’s real.

For something completely unique, there’s the Bird’s Nest, a tower with a star bed at the top where you can spend the night. It’s a dark sky reserve, so the stars are extraordinary. The team set everything up, bring dinner and drinks, and then leave you completely alone. It’s just you and the night sky.

One morning, we had what I can only describe as a real “lucky to be alive” moment. We were having a slow start when suddenly we heard the whir of helicopter blades, and it landed right on the lawn in front of us. To our surprise, we were told to get in, and suddenly we were up in the air.

The doors had been taken off, so you’re flying low over the landscape with the wind rushing past you, Mount Kenya in the distance, and animals moving below. It’s hard to put into words just how exhilarating it feels. You have your headphones on, music playing, and for a moment it genuinely feels like you’re in a film. Completely surreal, and incredibly special.

What’s so extraordinary is how unscripted it is. Arranged by Kenya Choppers, there’s no fixed route or set itinerary - they simply take you out and see what unfolds. If something catches their eye, they can land, and you can interact with tribes and local villages, or explore areas that would otherwise be completely inaccessible. They go up into northern Kenya to places like Lake Turkana and Lake Logipi, known for its flamingos, where you won’t see another traveller. It’s a completely different way of experiencing the country – far more spontaneous, and far more raw.